Tag Archives: investing

I Bought Stock Some Stock and You Can Too

Confession: I’m completely clueless when it comes to anything financial. While I understand the basic idea of living within a set budget, numbers just aren’t my favorite language. NASDAQ? 401(k)? I prefer romance languages and speaking in sample sale.

But while savings and investments won’t provide me with the instant gratification of scoring a really great pair of shoes at a good price, I do realize that they are important to understand and think about. The younger you are and the earlier you start, the more you stand to gain. Think about it–when you’re younger, you have a little bit more freedom to be both selfish and risky. Yes, it hurts to tuck away money when your paycheck can barely cover the essentials and your tax refund has the potential for so much fun, but starting to invest early allows you to be more adventurous and, potentially, reap more in rewards. With all this in mind, one of the goals I set for myself this year was to figure out the basics by investing a small amount in some fun stock.

It took some time and research, but I finally figured out how to begin and manage my tiny portfolio in a simple manner that I’m comfortable with. And, trust me, if I can do it, you can too! Fair warning though: the process I used it pretty much the furthest thing imaginable from anything seen in The Wolf of Wall Street. I doubt I’ll be rolling in Jonah Hill-esque money anytime soon, but I’m ok with that.

If living like Leo is your goal, you might want to stop reading now (and maybe check on your morals). But here’s a How To guide of process that I used and found comfortable for investing a small, budgeted amount (in this case, my tax refund) on my own:

Step 1. Google “How to invest in stock.”

The obvious disclaimer here is that you can’t trust everything you read online. But with some browsing and clicking, I was eventually able to find this article from CNN Money that was filled with tons of great, easy-to-understand information; it was the perfect compliment to Sara Hamling’s The Stock Market, published earlier this month. While I definitely recommend reading both articles, these are some of the highlights that I found to be particularly helpful:

  • A smart stock portfolio will include stocks from several different industries. This way the portfolio is somewhat protected if one area of the economy takes a downturn.
  • It’s smarter to think ahead and invest in purchasing stock that has the potential for long-term growth.
  • There’s no set standard or magic formula for stock evaluation – different brokers will evaluate stocks based on different formulas, but the most important thing is to feel comfortable with the company’s profile and potential. Generally speaking, large companies will offer stable, but small, returns, while smaller startups offer more risk and (potentially) higher returns.
  • Stock can be purchased from three different types of vendors: Full-service brokers will execute your stock orders while also offering their expert opinion, making them they most expensive option – you get what you pay for. The other two options are discount and online brokerages, which require you to do the background research on your own.

Step 2. Research online brokerages

Because I was only going to be making a petite initial investment and, partially, because I’ve always had the impression that trading stock in person involves a lot of pushing and yelling, I decided to look into using an online brokerage. I won’t lie, this was super scary. Some sites, like E*TRADE and TD Ameritrade, seem like they have great deals on the surface, but the fine print makes it clear that a substantial upfront investment (think +$10K) is required; others offer great terms and fees to their existing banking customers, but little incentive for outsiders.

Confusion regarding which site to use was definitely not something I had prepared for, so I did what I always do when feeling utterly and completely let down by the Internet/real world – I asked my friend Gina.

Gina is one of those magical people who always seems to be able to give the exact right advice (If you don’t have a Gina, I really recommend getting one ASAP. I found mine in college, but maybe try your favorite coffee place?). Fortunately for me, Gina has recently been doing some experimental investing on her own and pointed me to Sharebuilder.com. This site, which is geared toward small time investors like myself, proved to be exactly what I needed – there’s no minimum requirement to begin and each trade costs $6.95.

Step 3. Research your (potential) stocks

Once I had setup my Sharebuilder account, I need to figure out which stocks I actually wanted to purchase. Though my overall goal was to have fun throughout the process, I still wanted to try to protect my initial investment; this led me to decide on investing in a larger company, despite the fact that it would mean purchasing fewer shares.

Once this decision was made, I set about making a list of companies and brands that I happen to enjoy or find interesting. For me, this included Facebook, Twitter, Disney, Dreamworks, Time Warner, Yahoo, Netflix, and Apple. I then set about researching the stock prices and predictions, using Google and Sharebuilder’s provided tool. Ultimately, I decided to split the difference between protecting myself and taking bit of a risk, and narrowed my selection down to Disney and Yahoo.

Step 4. Place your order

Once I decided what to buy, I logged into my Sharebuilder account and placed my order; on my budget, this came to two shares of Disney, three shares of Yahoo, and, since I had a little extra, two shares of Dreamworks. Small potatoes, but it’s a start. The whole ordering process was just as easy as online shopping – which, it a sense, it is.

Step 5. Keep going

Moving forward, I plan to monitor the performance of my stocks and learn as much as I can from their performance. This includes reading up on Sharebuilder and seeking out additional articles. And, when a term is used that I don’t understand, I’ll just look it up. Ultimately, I hope that I can learn enough to expand on my earnings, reinvest profits earned, and even feel confident enough to get into some mutual funds.

Sounds pretty easy peasy, right? Here’s hoping.

Photo by Rob Adams

Photo by Rob Adams

Let’s Ask: UE’s Finance Guru

So far, Sara Hamling has done a wonderful job of effectively enlightening the financially frazzled. But some of us are just a bit more money-muddled than the others, so fellow UE contributor Michael Cox instigated a intense investigation into our investments.

Michael: Hi Sara, thanks for helping us out again! I like the way that you laid out some ideas for what is and what is not okay to spend money on from short-term and long-term spending accounts. Do you have similar advice for credit purchases when the ol’ short-term spending account isn’t up to snuff for (perhaps pet- or car-related) emergencies?

Sara: So your short-term savings account isn’t as full as you need it to be, and you’re facing a true emergency: you lose your job, your car needs new brakes so that you can get to work, you have a medical emergency. In those cases, it’s okay to use your credit card even if you can’t pay it off in full the next month. Pay at least the minimum every month (try to pay a little over) and most importantly, make a plan for how you are going to pay that money off as soon as possible.

That sounds like a good practice to follow. When the hits keep coming, what’s the risk?

Any time you are carrying a balance on your card from month to month you’re taking a risk—credit card companies can change almost any rate or term with little notice. Plus carrying a balance will not help your credit score. But, if you’re facing a true emergency, using your credit card can give you time to get back on your feet without ruining your credit (compared to, for instance, neglecting payments on a home or auto loan).

I’m trying to focus on not getting hurt by interest (too much) and not damaging my credit score. Thanks to some help from mint.com and Google Calendar, I’m pretty on top of paying everything on time, so as long as I’m not at risk of forgetting to make a payment it shouldn’t hurt, right?

Exactly!  What I did was setup auto-pay on my credit card accounts and, a week before it’s due, I can double-check that my auto-payment went through and my balance for that month is paid off.

My fiancée and I have a shared credit card that we use for our joint purchases (like the new bathroom towels, Saturday’s “Let’s have amazing food!” dinner, and any Sharks game we can make) so that we can easily divide our expenditures later (and not have to juggle credit cards at the counter in the moment). Assuming we pay it off every month (or very close) to avoid interest, is there a better way to do this? Is doing this actually hurting our credit?

Assuming you pay the card off every month, you should be fine. There’s nothing wrong with having and using a couple credit cards as long as you have the money to pay them off.

Like the seasoning in a recipe for financial success: “Use in moderation,” right? What else?

One other thing to look at is what percent of your credit limit are you using at any given time. Owing more than 30% of your available credit will actually affect your credit score negatively. So, if your card has a $3,000 credit limit and you regularly have more than $1,000 on the card—that will negatively affect your credit. You want to have low balances, pay bills on time, and pay more than the minimum if you’re going to be regularly using your credit cards.

That said, going over that $1,000 is absolutely okay in emergencies, especially if you can pay that balance off right away (and perhaps pay it back before it’s even due, if you can to get it back under 30% of available credit).

You had some great recommendations for online savings accounts in your previous article. Do you have similar recommendations for credit cards?

If you have carried a balance in the past or think you might carry a balance in the future, look into credit cards that have the lowest APRs. The APR is the annual percentage rate you will pay on the money you don’t pay off in full every month. Typically, this is between 10-25%.

It certainly makes sense to just pay off the remaining balance each month.

If you have consistently paid off your balance every month, focus more on rewards. Most cards give you 1 “point” for every dollar you spend. This is typically equal to 1% back on a purchase ($1 back on $100 purchase). So, look for a cards that will give you more than that amount for certain purchases.

I like the sound of that! But from that word, “certain,” it sounds like there’s a catch?

Let’s say you wanted to get a couple credit cards with different rewards. You could get a Bank America Cash Rewards Card which gives you 2% back on groceries and 3% back on gas purchases. If you eat out a lot, you could get the Chase Sapphire Card which gives you 2% back on dining. Or you could look into the Chase Freedom Card which gives you 5% back on different types of purchases every three months (i.e. movie theatres & gas stations, or Amazon & department stores). Just make sure you know which cards give you what rewards and use them accordingly. (Note: All the above credit cards will give you the standard 1% back on other non-category purchases.)

So, we could use a different card for every kind of purchase, or…

Or, if you don’t want to have to remember what cards give you what rewards, you could get a card that gives you 1.5% back on all your purchases like the Quicksilver Cash Rewards Card.

Regardless of what you’re looking for, use credit card comparison sites to figure out which offers you will use most.

That sounds great but… Should holding multiple credit cards be avoided? It seems like a delicate balance between “You have enough credit history to get a mortgage” and “Your credit isn’t quite good enough for a livable mortgage.”

There’s nothing wrong with holding multiple credit cards so long as you’re not abusing them. I wouldn’t get more than about four, but two or three is totally fine especially if they give you points for different types of purchases.

That sounds like a good rule of thumb. So what’s the recipe for success?

The ideal situation for your credit cards is that you have a few, you keep low balances on them, and you pay them off in full every month. Now—that’s not always possible. But that’s what’s going to get you the best credit score if that’s what you’re looking for.

As a gamer, I always want the best score. I’m curious though. You said “low balances,” not “no balances.” Is not using your credit cards bad, too?

It’s not great to never use your cards. But… it’s probably better to not use your card for a short amount of time than to close the account. It’s awful for your credit if you open and close credit cards any more than you absolutely need to. Say you’ve opened too many credit card accounts, and you realize you really don’t need them all: don’t close them (unless you have a tendency to abuse credit) and don’t stop using them entirely. Just charge one small thing a month to them and then pay that off in full every month.

I feel like this should be taught in school; do you have any homework for me?

Sure! Here’s a good article on how balances affect your credit score.

Now, for those 20-somethings who are lucky enough to be investing and not just borrowing: when the world looks messy (I’m looking at you, Russia) or the market looks testy (well, this isn’t the ’90s, so maybe this isn’t so terrible a threat), is it ever the right decision to pull your stock market funds?

I’m already following your advice on using passive investment strategies in Mutual Funds/Index Funds/ETFs because, seriously, who has time to micromanage this?

It depends on what kind of account your stocks are in.

If your money is in a retirement account where your money is in Mutual Funds/Index Funds/ETFs—don’t move your money. Do not move it. Maybe you think you can time the market and avoid a dip, but even the best brokers fail to do this regularly. Money for retirement has a long time to grow if you’re putting it in before age 30, and even before age 40. It’s much better to ride out the market’s highs and lows if you have the time and your money is invested diversely.

Don’t touch the retirement. Got it! What about all the other types of investments?

If you have a separate brokerage account though that is not for retirement but is, instead, say…. money for that wedding, money for a house, money for a big trip… money that you are planning on needing in a couple years—then, you may possibly want to pull your stock market funds. If you know you will need that money and you don’t have confidence in the market (or you just don’t want to take the chance because you know you will need it soon), it’s okay to take the money out and put it in something less risky (hello, high-yield savings accounts or CDs!). Or, take half your money out and keep half in—another way to be slightly more risk-averse.

Okay, so keep your ultimate money goals in mind when deciding where and when investments should be managed. I feel more fiscally fit already! Thanks, Sara!

Michael Cox is a contributing writer. He is also a really tall computer engineer, app developer, musician, computer gamer, and San Jose Sharks fan. Twitter: @TehMiikay.

Sara Hamling is a contributing writer. Graphic Designer, Foodie and Baseball Enthusiast living in San Francisco and exploring the rest of California. Follow me @shamlingdesign

Photo by Rob Adams

Photo by Rob Adams