All posts by Shilpa Rao

The Time I Worked For The Devil at an NGO

When I moved to India in February 2012, I reached out to a NGO that my family had supported, seeking employment opportunities. Within a few hours of sending out my earnest email, the anonymized “Dr. S” replied, immediately inviting me to his government hospital in a small village town in India. That weekend, he personally walked me through the hospital, school, and eco lodge he had set up to help tribal children gain access to education. This campus was the basis of his NGO, which employed over a thousand people and managed over twenty-five government hospitals in rural areas throughout India.

You see, Dr. S never used his medical degree to pursue a traditional for-profit practice. He never married, had children, or even opened a bank account—opting instead to devote his entire life to offering free healthcare to the poor and forgotten. He is the recipient of numerous awards, has campaigned for health and transparency initiatives in the Indian government, and is the winner of multiple prestigious grants.

Dr. S won me over with his work, lifestyle, and mission. I immediately accepted his job offer to manage family planning initiatives from his head office in Bangalore.

But my first day in the office already seemed… off. The other twelve employees were fluttering around stressed, mumbling under their breaths, barely acknowledging anything around them. Until Dr. S walked into the room and, like a military regime, his soldiers immediately straightened up, addressed him as “Sir,” and bowed their heads when his eyes met theirs.

Initially, I thought it was a bad day. But the day turned into weeks and the weeks into months without any change. He never acknowledged good work, but broadcasted any problems. In fact, he created problems just to gloat in his ability to scream at his employees. Coworkers who had PhDs and Masters were treated like toilet cleaners. Every detail, document, and phone call had to be approved by him, stripping other managers of any real power.

Oh, you want a pen drive? Better email him for approval. Oh, you want to print a legal agreement? First, ask if you can use the printer.

Then I began to observe the day-to-day office dynamics. When Dr. S entered, the entire office came to a standstill. No one so much as whispered. They just stood there and waited for him to bellow out names and commands. Except, he never called any of the employees by their actual names. Instead, he would use derogatory insults in the local language: “Hey Owl! You couldn’t even take notes properly? You might as well shred up your PhD because you can’t be any stupider than a second grader.” “Donkey, how long does it take to show up when I call your name? You better clean your ears out with your degree since it’s not good for anything else.”

I worked six days a week, Monday through Saturday from 9 am to 5:30 pm. The turnover rate was incredible.  In my three months, I saw six people (out of twelve) come and go.

Since Dr. S was the Chairman of the NGO, my direct boss was the executive director, Rekha. In the beginning, she seemed harmless—dare I say, even charming. We sat next to each other, telling jokes (only when Dr. S was out of the office, naturally) and discussing execution plans for our various initiatives. I figured if I just kept my head buried in my projects, I could slip in and out without attracting much attention.

The reality was, though, that I never really handled anything. The executive director would give me instructions, but when I presented the final result to Dr. S, he would shred it apart, yelling and screaming about how awful and horrible my work was. He would outwardly contradict any direction that Rekha had provided, and cut me off when I tried to point out this fallacy. With each outburst (and there were at least two a day), I started to realize that even Rekha was a nut case. Though she’d give me guidelines, she would stand smirking when Dr. S yelled opposing directions. When I spoke up Rekha would dismiss me by saying, “I don’t know what you are talking about. Don’t you know how to follow instructions?”

Pretty quickly, I started to feel crazy. I would put together a budget just to have to redo it every other day depending on Dr. S’s moods. News flash: the mood was always horrible. Not only was I not contributing to anything (because Dr. S would halt any project or hinder any effort), the general abuse was starting to suffocate me.

I was not allowed to eat at my desk. I was not allowed to eat at any point except lunch. I was not allowed to leave for lunch. Bathroom breaks had to be approved by the doctor ahead of time. When I traveled for a week straight to different Indian villages, I was to sleep in a hospital bed to save money on hotels.  On one visit, I stayed up all night next to three cockroaches and two lizards, picking at my split ends, wondering if giving back to the community was meant to feel this shitty.

And yet, I still craved for those times I would get to travel to the hospitals, just to be out of the office. Honestly, I also secretly wished the Dr. would just get hospitalized in his own rural treatment center. Every time a funding partner would join us in a meeting, Dr. S and Rekha smiled, told jokes, and even served biscuits outside of lunch. I would also laugh uncomfortably, suppressing the urge to shout to the partners “HELP! RUN! DON’T FUND A DERANGED PSYCHO.”

One day, after a long week of yelling, retyping the same document fifteen times, and barely eating, I went to a friend’s goodbye party. By midnight, I received an insanely long email from Rekha, listing out each flaw in me as a human. My clothes needed to be baggier to hide my body, I slouched too much, my legs crossed funny when I was sitting, my walk could be improved, my left nipple was larger than my right. Okay, she didn’t really mention the nipple, but you get it.

After only three months, I felt entirely destroyed. But I was too scared to leave. It was like an abusive relationship. Maybe I was as stupid as Dr. S claimed. Maybe I was just being too fussy and not making an effort to work harder. If I left, would anyone else want me?

The following week, Dr. S called me in for a meeting with his infamous leer. He leaned over the table and finally looked into my eyes and said, “Everything I make, I donate back into the trust. Technically, you make 5000 rupees more a month, but I’ve taken the liberty of withholding that amount as donation. So, we will deposit all the money we’ve taken and you just need to write us a check in bulk, making the donation appear…you know… generous.”

I was flabbergasted at the deceit and fraud. I nodded, frozen in my own thoughts and spent all evening bouncing ideas off my mother who was adamant that I quit immediately. In India, the notice period is generally one month. But I had seen how heinously Dr. S treated those employees serving their last month: I wouldn’t be able to handle it.

So, the following Monday, my mother came with me to the office. I was the only one there. She had the getaway vehicle waiting while I snuck in to drop off my company laptop. I took the liberty of writing a goodbye email to the entire company stating:

Thank you for giving me this opportunity. However, I will not be a part of an organization whose leadership team strongly conflicts with the humanitarian mission of the NGO. This is my resignation, effective immediately.

Though I was burning bridges and quitting in an unprofessional manner, I couldn’t bear to work for an organization where the employees were treated like farm animals.

Within a few hours, my phone was blowing up with calls and texts from Rekha and Dr. S. I just pulled out the battery and went to sleep.

Clearly, not all NGOs or companies are run like North Korea. However, this three-month immersion in hell showed me exactly how not lead a company and how deceptive a company’s image and media can be. To this day, I have no idea how Dr. S functioned in the humanitarian space as an awful human and why Rekha stayed for over a year with his abuse. I’m just happy I moved onto a normal, functioning company where the CEO must take his meds daily.

More importantly, even on the really tough days at work, I’m grateful that I can always eat lunch.

Photo by Andy Sutterfield

Photo by Andy Sutterfield

Time Stamped in a Different Time Zone

This February will mark my two-year anniversary of booking a one-way ticket to Bangalore, India, ultimately leaving New York and my friends behind to chase a newfound interest in helping women’s rights abroad.

A lot has changed since the nights I spent in New York drunkenly crying on my bedroom floor, chain-smoking Camels to temper the taste of feeling pathetic, frustrated, and directionless in my mouth. Full disclosure: I listened to the entire Drake album on repeat for months, too.

And, yet, this March marks my return back to the U.S. to pursue graduate school. Though my intention behind the move was to donate my skills, the reality is that I took more lessons from India than I dished out.

India has gone above and beyond in delivering the unique experience that I desperately craved, but Frommer’s did not tell me how to handle spending the night in a lodge run by an oiled down 12-year-old boy, sleeping on a blood-stained bed sheet. Women’s interest blogs did not guide me on how to hitchhike on a 16-year-old’s motorcycle to get away from a group of leering men that started following me out of the gym. Expat groups did not tell me that before I even started my first day at work, my colleague would be kind enough to invite me to his daughter’s first birthday with the rest of the team.

But I don’t want to focus on the lessons of humility, patience and sanitation that I’ve learned from moving abroad. It would be trite to remind you to eat only cooked food or observe the local attire.  I don’t have photos albums of sepia-filtered temples or me doing the downward dog on the beach. #princessjasmine

All those things could be learned and recreated from a Lonely Planet forum or even a short-term visit to a foreign country. What I have experienced from being away from the U.S. is something that no amount of literature or conversation could have prepared me for: transience.

The life of an expat can be inherently sad and lonely. Unless you moved abroad with your family or plan on settling long-term in a new place, you immediately realize the implications of having a time-stamped relationship with your host country.

Almost everything in my current life has a clear expiration date, except for ironically, the milk (seriously, why doesn’t it ever go bad here?). I meet a fellow expat and, by the time I learn his last name, I also know his departure date and what airline he is flying. The takeaway? Always fly Emirates.

I find investing in these friendships exhausting because I wonder if I made any stable or consistent connections in the last two years. Are we all rushing into fake intimacy because it is better to be slamming shots under the guise of friendship than it is to be the lonely girl at the bar ordering white wine…. again?

Or can six months of friendship be a solid enough foundation to keep the momentum going for years to come? After all, those six months were littered with experiences like holding my French friend’s hand in the ambulance as we rushed to the emergency room to avoid a potential splenectomy. Or sitting behind my Australian friend on a scooter as we navigate a new beach town. And then I remember that our home countries are scattered all over the world. Our unifying thread is the time we spent in India. I don’t look for lifetime friendships in everyone I meet, but when I met you on Saturday and I know you leave in three weeks, I can’t help but ask, ‘Why bother?

Those restless nights in New York made me desire something else, but only professionally. I never questioned whether my personal life would turn into a revolving door of faces and names, nor did I imagine that I’d spend consecutive months with someone to never see them again. In essence, I took everyone for granted.

But this transience, she plays dirty. She’ll make you feel crazy and stupid until you are desperately refreshing Kayak for a good deal home. And just when your third bout of diarrhea hits from eating at the alleged five-star restaurant in the Sheraton and you’re stuck at home missing your friend’s goodbye party because a cab strike prevents you from physically attending, she comes over, sits on your lap, and gives you the ride of her life: Oh, a group of you guys are going to Goa this weekend? Sure, let me pack really quickly. Dinner at the Taj? Good thing I’m driving by RIGHT THIS SECOND.

Maybe she isn’t soo bad.

After all, transience has also shown me the beauty in expat life.  The constant merry-go-round of people in my life has forced me to enjoy each outing, each dinner, and even each bathroom trip for what it actually is. There is no false promise of the next hangout or a future trip. As corny as it may sound: moving away has forced me to actually live in the present.

And as you enjoy the third round of sangria at Sunday brunch with a group of people who you met three days ago at a some guy’s house party who is moving back to Canada next week, you also realize that life’s truest moments are those you spend with your fellow transient strangers. There are no guards up when talking to each other or feelings of shyness to cut through because you literally don’t have the time for the initial, get-to-know-you-slowly, game.  The second you realize that all you have are mere seconds to get to know someone, you stop sizing each other up and down and approach with more confidence and acceptance: commes des F down, we’re just doing dinner.

Now, I’m contemplating what profound insight to leave you with because my boyfriend just came home. I’m watching him change from a suit into a t-shirt—not because I’m completely creepy (well, okay, that too), but to take in this moment, because we may not be together after March, when I return home and he stays in India. He is an expat, too, from New York. I guess I really couldn’t leave New York behind.

This is when I want to slap transience for her loud mouth taunting, for filling me with doubts and “Why bothers?” We may be tragically time stamped. That ticking clock may force me to really—no, really—spend time with him here. But that’s all any of us ever have: today and an uncertain future. So I’m here now, today, with my own departure date. And all it took to appreciate this moment was to leave everything in my past.

Photo by Henri Legentil

Photo by Henri Legentil

 

My Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Breakup

I grew up with a strict mother who only believed in dating after marriage (well okay, at least halfway through a college degree). Yet once I was in college, I never really met anyone I deemed worthy of my time or attention. I had my share of awkward texting, a few month-long flings, but nothing with an official title or anyone worth spending the holidays with.

By the time I moved to India, I had somehow managed to escape 5 years in the largest city in America with no relationship. So you can imagine my surprise upon meeting my first serious boyfriend mere months after arriving in Bangalore. Apparently, all I needed was a city three times the population of New York to find someone compatible.

It was a whirlwind, passionate—ahem, disgusting—romance; we were joined at the hip, spoke in our own gross code, and everyone rightfully hated us for it.  Within three months, we told each other we loved one another; within four, we were visiting each other’s families (even the extended ones in Indian villages!); six brought us on multiple vacations; and eight solidified that we were going to get married at some point and even get matching tattoos (gag, I know).

While nothing is wrong with an intense romance, I realize in hindsight (funny how that always works) that we were completely incompatible for each other. We were each other’s crutch, not complements; there were many inherent traits—passivity, indecisiveness, laziness—that would not have worked long-term. Okay, fine, I’m sure there were many traits of mine that were flawed as well, but since it’s my shitty breakup, let’s just bypass that.

Yes, you read right: breakup. Since it has been over nine months and I’ve moved on to greener pastures, I can look back on that brutal breakup with a sense of a relief, instead of the initial heartbreak that it caused.

So let’s rewind back in time to March of this year. Fresh off a weekend with my family, my boyfriend, the anonymized “AS,” left for a beach town in northern India for a week-long work retreat. Since his coworkers were scattered all over India and Africa, the retreat was an opportunity to get face-to-face interaction. The week would consist of team-building exercises during the day, before enjoying the beach and parties in the evening.  All friends and family were welcome to join on the weekend, which is exactly what I had planned.

During the week, AS regaled me with tales of group dynamics, fun beach parties, and the mushy stuff that made me excited to join him over the weekend. He also mentioned the Uganda-based employee and new hire, Renee. Renee was a very cute girl, I would totally love her, she was perfect for his coworker John. And, ha, John was trying so hard to hook up with Renee!

Thursday night, I boarded a 12-hour overnight bus to the beach town. AS was planning on picking me up at the bus stop. After a bumpy ride where I stayed awake most of the time, I called AS around 6:30am to let him know I was close.  No answer. I waited a bit before calling a few more times and texting; each time, he never answered.  So I got off at the random bus stop in an unknown town at 7 am where I didn’t speak the language or even know the hotel name so I could call and figure out why my boyfriend failed to show.

Around 7:15am, AS called back, groggy and confused. He claimed he slept through his entire alarm after partying the night before. He gave me the hotel address and I played charades with a taxi driver before navigating to the hotel. Though annoyed, I was happy to see AS and enjoy the early morning beach with him. Immediately, I also met all of his bosses and coworkers, including Renee, and spent the morning with them.

After a long morning, we retired to our respective beach huts for a nap. “Want to grab something to eat?” I asked AS, as I hung our swimsuits to dry. AS stayed silent for a minute before he whispered, “Shilp, I need to tell you something. I hooked up Renee last night.” I pinched my forefinger with one of the clothespins, “Fuck these clothespins!” I exclaimed.

AS began to stammer. “I mean all week we were getting along really well. Last night we had been drinking and I decided to leave the group to get my phone from the hut. She followed me and one thing lead to another…” His voice trailed off.

I stared intently at my clothespin attacker wondering what sort of dickhead would use such an archaic way of dealing with clothes. A clothespin was just a glorified paper clip.

“She has a hickey on her neck, and I didn’t want you to get suspicious,” AS rambled.

A hickey? Have they made a resurgence post high school?

“Actually, she has a boyfriend she lives with in Uganda… so…”

Initially, I couldn’t process what had happened. Then the shock began to fade, and anger started to sink in. AS left me stranded at a bus station because he spent all night having sex with a coworker he’d been gushing about over the phone all week. Though I was on my way to see him, though his entire company knew of my existence, he completely disrespected and humiliated me by screwing a coworker who was also cohabitating with her boyfriend hours before my arrival. And since I couldn’t get another bus or flight out earlier than Sunday (it was now Friday evening) I was legitimately trapped for the next 36 hours with AS, her, his company, and what was supposed to be a beach holiday.

Her beach shack was directly across from ours. In the mornings when I went to retrieve my swimsuit, I saw her doing the same.  She and her hickey that my boyfriend left her sat at the end of the dinner table I shared, rejoicing in moments with the rest of the team.  While my boyfriend played a pathetic dog, stuck to my side, I was completely aware of her glances, her frowns, her desperate brown eyes staring AS up and down when he was with me.

AS and I didn’t talk much during those 36 hours. I put on a happy façade though I just wanted to constantly vomit; no one suspected anything. The night before we were scheduled to leave, we separated ourselves from Renee and went to a party on the beach. Yet just like an annoying zit on your chin, Renee and the rest of the team showed up. I watched her like a hawk, hoping she’d keep her distance from me. AS never told her once to stay away. Shameless people, however, have no boundaries—within minutes she’d bring drinks from the bar to peddle off to AS or try to engage him in conversation.

Maturity and taking the higher road sure is a bitch: the last 24 hours of playing the Stepford wife had been killing me. I felt suffocated in my own body, wanting to tear my skin off and run. So that is exactly what I did—well, the running part. Like a bad Jennifer Aniston movie, I found myself at 1am sprinting down the beach towards my shack in tears as AS’s ass lagged behind, yelling for me to stop. Stop? I wanted to drown.

Hell froze over and Sunday finally rolled around and it was time to catch our flight. As we joined the rest of the team to say our goodbyes, I stared directly at Renee and her hickey. The entire weekend of suppressing my urge to smack her across the face had manifested in my throat; I looked at her intently, smiled and declared loudly (in front of her bosses, coworkers, and naturally, AS), “Renee, I want to thank you for such an amazing weekend. Please tell your live-in boyfriend in Africa that I would love to meet him: it sounds like we’d have so much in common.”

Then I lit a cigarette and threw the match behind me as the entire shack burst into flames. Well, okay, I just stormed off. But later I found out that Renee burst into tears in front of her entire company, so that’s really just a legal way of doing the same thing.

Ultimately, reader, you guessed it (seriously, you guys are way smarter than me), AS and I broke up. He never once stood up for me during the entire experience and continued to fluctuate between ambivalence for his actions and pathetic groveling. His passivity was astounding, even during the breakup. It was a clean cut—no follow-up emails, no phone calls, no run-ins. It was so clean that it made me question if our entire relationship had actually occurred—overnight, all proof of its existence was wiped. To this day, I struggle, wondering if he ever loved me. I also wish I had said something sharper to Renee. Don’t you hate it when all of your great comebacks come to you hours later?

Maybe it’s the universe giving me an epically shitty breakup because I was deprived of partially shitty breakups throughout college. Maybe it’s fate intervening to keep me from wasting more time with such an immature child. Regardless, at the end of the day, it’s science telling me that I at least deserve a better travel partner.

What did I learn from this breakup and relationship? Always keep his hard drive of movies.

Recently, a mutual friend drunkenly told me that he saw Facebook photos of AS gorilla-trekking in Uganda… presumably gifting Renee more hickeys.  My thoughts on that? Well, some species haven’t evolved like the rest of us.

Photo by Sara Slattery

Photo by Sara Slattery

How to Order Meat & Eggs

Confession—I love meat, but I don’t eat beef. However, my street cred in understanding meat comes from dating ardent beef-eaters (I grew up in the Midwest, y’all), much to the dismay of my Hindu mother.

Photo by Sara Slattery

Recently, I dated a gentleman who was well-versed in beef and beer. Dinner conversations generally involved the words yeast, fermentation, and rare, which in hindsight points to signs that we were probably destined to break up.

So, while the only beefeater I prefer is gin, I will thank my relationships for imparting some worldly knowledge. I’ve eaten dinner with enough weirdoes to learn my restaurant etiquette, so you don’t have to!

Here’s my breakdown on the different ways to order steak and eggs (my specialty!) at a restaurant, without looking like a complete vegetarian.

STEAK:

First of all, steaks are any piece of meat that is considered a “fast cooking” cut: a cut that does not require long time to cook. Flavor and tenderness tend to have a mutually exclusive relationship; generally, the more lean or tender the steak is, the less flavor it has, because the flavor really comes from the fat. In addition, the muscles that do the most work such as the legs and neck tend to be more lean and tough as compared to their “lazier” counterparts.

Now, let’s put the grade and type of beef aside. There are two ways to tackle steak: cut and temperature. Let’s start with the different cuts or, to be crude, the areas of the cow which are available for your carnivorous pleasure. Depending on the cut, the tenderness, flavor, and cooking method can vary widely, but I’ve listed the popular ones below.

  • Forequarter cuts: These cuts are near the front of the cow, or “forequarters.”
    • The Rib: Pretty self explanatory: this meat can be short ribs, prime ribs, and rib eye steaks. The cow’s muscles near the ribs generally do not work hard or exercise; therefore, there is a great amount of marbling (intramuscular fat), making the meat relatively tender.
  • The Loins: Now, the hindquarter cuts can be broken down into three type:
    • Sirloin: While less tender than short loin, sirloin is generally more flavorful. It can also be further divided into top sirloin and bottom sirloin.
    • Tenderloin: This can be considered a sub-type of the loin. Staying true to its name, it is the most tender. Filet Mignon is a form of tenderloin. This comes from two relatively small pieces of tenderloin muscle in cattle, making the coveted steak pricier than its counterparts.
  • Miscellaneous: Other steaks like the chuck, round, and flank come from their respective areas and tend to be the tough cuts.
    • Chuck: A cut from the neck to the ribs. Many times, this steak includes shoulder bones and is generally is less expensive than its rib-based steak counterparts.
    • Rump Steak: Take a guess where this meat comes from! The rump meat is tough and is generally roasted.
    • Round Steak: This lean meat is from the thigh of cattle; due to the lack of fat, it does not tenderize quickly, so it is more suited to slow cooking methods such as roasting.
    • Flank Steak: This substantially tough steak is long and flat. The meat requires marinades and other slow cooking methods and are not ideal for steaks.

Now that you’ve figured out what part of the cow you’re eating, how would you like it served? High-end steakhouses may have their own variations, but here is a general guideline to temperature:

  • Rare: Cool, red center
  • Medium Rare: Warm, red center
  • Medium: Hot, red Center
  • Medium Well: Hot, pink Center
  • Well: No pink, brown

Photo by Sara Slattery

EGGS:

Now let me introduce my expertise—eggs. As a meat eater with a pretty strict vegetarian family, eggs are the only dishes that count as a free pass for everyone in my household to foray into the animal kingdom. In fact, most of my family turns a blind eye to eggs as long as the dish meets strict scientific requirements or, you know, doesn’t “smell eggy.”

  • Scrambled: The most common type of egg preparation, scrambled eggs are basically the yolk and the whites (unless you specify whites only!) beaten briskly to incorporate air and constantly stirred in a pan to produce large puffy curds of egg.
  • Over easy/medium/hard: These are all fried eggs that refer to the consistency of the yolk. For example, over easy implies a runny yolk with solidified whites, but over hard means to cook on both sides ‘till the yolk hardens.
  • Sunny-Side Up: A caveat of fried eggs, sunny-side up refers to one side of the eggs being fully cooked, while the yolk remains runny.  Crack an egg over low heat and let one side cook without flipping or pushing it around the pan. The difference between an over easy and a sunny-side up egg is that in preparing sunny-side eggs, you let only one side fry, while any “over” preparation requires you to flip the egg to the other side to cook the egg whites.
  • Poached: A poached egg has a smooth unbroken yolk that is surrounded evenly by a casing of eggs whites.  The preparation involves submerging the yolk in water, as opposed to letting it cook straight on the pan. Crack an egg into a bowl, without breaking the yolk, before sliding the contents into a pan of simmering water for cooking. Wait until the egg white has solidified, but the yolk stays soft. The key to success here is getting the freshest eggs possible and timing it right!
  • Boiled: Boiled eggs remain in their shells until they reach your plate. Despite the name, boiled eggs should not actually be boiled throughout the entire cooking process. Instead, bring eggs (with shell intact) to a boil and then remove them from the heat. For soft- or medium-boiled, let them stand for 2-3 minutes; but for hard boiled, let the eggs sit in the boiling water for 12 minutes. After your remove the eggs, plunge them immediately into a bowl of ice water to facilitate peeling off the shell.

While there is a wide spectrum and range that varies from country to country and restaurant to restaurant, this serves a general guide to understanding the steak and egg lingo.  The real key takeaway is that if you know how to order eggs and meat, you should definitely ask me out.

Handling Public Transit

Four years ago, I was in Singapore—arguably one of the safest countries in the world—when I found myself in the back of a stranger’s gray minivan heading back to what would (hopefully) be my hotel. After my friend and I left a bar and couldn’t find taxis, she had used her Mandarin to flag down the vehicle of a family driving back from an IT convention and convinced them to give us a ride home. We ended up getting dropped off at a chicken and rice restaurant because, well, priorities.

Photo by Sara Slattery

I vowed never to hitchhike again, until two years later, when I found myself in Buenos Aires on the back of a strange Argentine’s motorcycle, post New Year’s, heading to breakfast at 7 am because, again, priorities.

As I’ve gotten older and have traveled more, I understand that strangers’ vehicles do not really qualify as public transportation. Therefore, to safely explore a city, I have since opted to take the local tube, metro, or subway. Though it can be overwhelming, taking public transportation can give you the best insights into the nature and vibe of a town. Plus, it teaches you how weird people everywhere really are. While the train lines and the bus numbers change, there are some universal rules that I always follow when hopping aboard anything that moves faster than 2 miles per hour.

1. Always plan a second route.

When I was visiting London for a few days, I became a short-lived master of the specific routes of the Tube. However, one evening when I was rushing to get back to my hotel, the dreaded announcement of a technical difficulty came over the loudspeakers (I swear British English is its own language). The train was going to be parked at this random station indefinitely. Since I was in a rush, I jumped out at the station and came above ground. Realizing I only had a vague idea of where I was, I started walking down the street to find another Tube line and even attempted to navigate the bus system, both ending in utter failures. Annoyed, I tried to hail a cab but they were all taken. Just to add icing on my pathetic cake, it began to downpour because London sits under an everlasting cumulonimbus cloud. So, basically, I relived a horrible scene from an equally horrible Jennifer Aniston movie and walked five blocks in the rain to just turn around and go back on the original broken-down rail.

Side note: I later found out there was a direct bus to the street of my hotel right near the train stop.

2. During peak hours, work your way to the door well before your stop.

In Mumbai, India, the trains are packed sardine cans with bold and desperate commuters clinging onto the outsides while racing to their potential doom (or home, depending on what comes first or what you actually want). My good friend was one of the those unlucky souls packed so tightly in the middle of the car that he was unable to maneuver his way to the front in time for his stop; he watched the door close from within the train and he hurdled on to the next stop. This happened two or three more times on the same journey, with each stop bringing him significantly further away from his home. By the time he was able to battle his way off the train, he had traveled over 35 minutes away from his intended stop, forcing him to cross the platform and jump right back on the train and backtrack his route. This resulted in an extra hour-and-a-half commute back to his destination and a few veins bursting in his forehead.

3. Always have ample money on your bus pass or subway card; never let the amount run low.

If you are vacationing in a foreign city, look into investing in a day pass or something long-term instead of just a single ride. This way, you will save money in the long run if you plan on taking the trains a lot, and you won’t have to worry about the zones or specific costs of each stop. In addition, if you miss your stop, you won’t feel particularly wounded that you have to buy another ticket again. Save your dignity-reducing actions for later in the evening.

4. Do NOT make eye contact.

As a human, I understand the urge to people watch and casually observe, but when on public transport, staring at someone in a close proximity is extremely uncomfortable and can warrant some unnecessary responses. I generally get really into staring at the same smudged spot on the door or begin a highly detailed analysis of my nail cuticles.

My dear friend made the mistake of looking at a disheveled man sitting across from her on a New York subway, catching his gaze for a second too long. I’m not sure in which animal world a lingering gaze is a cue for self-pleasure, but the man was inspired to stand up, move closer to her, and stare at her while shoving his hands under his trench coat (they are always in trench coats!) and fondling his unmentionables. Utterly horrified, my friend sat paralyzed ‘til the next stop, where she immediately switched train cars. I’m not saying every time you look someone in the eye they masturbate, but I’m not NOT saying that either.

5. Exercise caution when taking out all your Apple products.

Fine, maybe Android for you heathens, but either way, I wouldn’t recommend carelessly waving your iPod, tablet, or smartphone around. The more you take public transit, the easier it is to let your guard down, but try to make it a point to really be aware of your surroundings. This sounds simple, but as an ardent breaker of this rule, I’m speaking on experience. When my friends and I were in Chicago taking the L back home around 9:30 pm, my friend was telling us a story, holding her brand new iPhone in her hand. Just as we were approaching a stop, a boy no older than 14 walked by us and immediately tried to snatch the phone from her hand and run out the door. Luckily, my friend had an iron grip on the phone and glass-shattering screams, and the boy ran off sans phone and sans hearing. Naturally, everyone else in the car pretended to be dead and didn’t bother to even blink at her screams.

So, whether you are a daily commuter in Boston or a novice navigating the trains of Bangkok, I suggest you follow these simple rules of public transit to ensure a stress-free ride.

Or you could take a ride on a South American’s Vespa for breakfast. I promise you, you won’t regret that, either.

Understanding STIs

My first introduction to STIs was when I was 14.

No, guys, not like that! My mother, a cardiologist, always believed in firmly and openly talking about health issues. While I can respect her openness and transparency, I’ll never forget her methods.

I came downstairs ­to wait for dinner while my mom was rustling about upstairs in her room. She then came running down the stairs like a little girl, holding ripped-out pages of an American Medical Association journal, all showcasing a wide range of STIs with detailed photographs of the most extreme outbreaks and symptoms.

“These will be the dangers you face in life if you don’t protect yourself,” she said morosely, before breaking into a laugh, and setting the table.

In case you weren’t lucky enough to consume images of genital warts with your meatloaf, I’ve taken the liberty to break down the various types of common STIs in the U.S. Also, since I host a sexual health web series, I decided that I should share my research with you, instead of just maintaining a questionable Internet search history on my computer. Unlike my mother, I don’t recommend reading this over dinner.

Chlamydia 

What it is & Symptoms:

Chlamydia is the popular kid at the party, as it is the most frequently reported STI in the United States.  It is a curable STI, spread through unprotected anal, oral or vaginal intercourse and exchange of body fluids. Known as the “silent infection,” many times, it remains symptomless. In fact, 50% of men and 75% of women with the infection actually show no signs.

However, if you do show symptoms, they can show up weeks after exposure, and may include burning during urination or abnormal vaginal or penile discharge.

Diagnosis & Treatment:

Generally, doctors will test urine samples or take sample secretions from a man’s urethra or a women’s cervix.  If you test positive, the doctor will prescribe antibiotics that will rid you of the disease within 1–2 weeks. However, you should be sure to take the medication for the entire duration prescribed. Repeat infections are very common, so refrain from any sexual activity ‘til your follow up test comes back negative.

If left untreated, chlamydia can result in urethritis for men or potential reproductive issues for women.

Dinner Trivia Fact:

Chlamydia has been around for a thousand years, but only in the 1960s was it finally classified as an STI. Talk about a drastic makeover.

Gonorrhea

What it is & Symptoms:

Gonorrhea is also a curable STI transmitted through unprotected oral, anal, and vaginal intercourse and body fluid exchange with someone infected. Symptoms can appear 2–5 days after infections, but in men, symptoms make take months to show up. In fact, some don’t even have symptoms.

Some male symptoms may include burning and increased frequency when urinating, discharge from the penis, and swollen testicles. In women, symptoms are generally very mild and vague, often mistaken for a bladder or a vaginal infection.

Diagnosis and Treatment:

Like chlamydia, gonorrhea is diagnosed through a urine sample and also treated with antibiotics. Generally, if you are positive for gonorrhea, you should also get tested for sister diseases, such as chlamydia and syphilis.

If left untreated, gonorrhea can spread to the blood and joints. For men, it can cause a painful condition in the tubes attached to the testicles, which can potentially lead to infertility. For women, it can spread to the uterus.

Dinner Trivia Fact:

Gonorrhea is also known as “the clap.” Many people believe the name came from the French brothels, known as the les clapiers, because the men who frequented them eventually ended up with the infection. So basically, blame the French. 

Syphilis

What it is & Symptoms:

Syphilis is a bacteria-based STI that is also curable. It can be transmitted through skin-to-skin contact with someone who is infected with syphilis sores. Symptoms can appear from 10–90 days after infection.  There are actually four stages of syphilis, with the first two being highly infectious.

    1. Primary: One or more sores show up where syphilis has entered the body, generally near the genitals. The sore is firm, round and painless, and can easily go unnoticed. It lasts 3–6 weeks and goes away on its own, regardless of treatment. However, it can then progress to the second stage.
    2. Secondary Stage:  Flu-like illness, a non-itchy rash covering the whole body or in patches, patchy hair loss, and white patches on the tongue or in the mouth are all symptoms.
    3. Latent stage: If secondary stage syphilis is untreated, it can turn into latent. Here, the primary and secondary stage symptoms all clear up, even though the syphilis remains in the body. This latent stage can last for years before progressing.
    4. Tertiary Stage: 15–30% of people infected with syphilis who don’t get treatment will go onto tertiary or late stage, where the disease can damage your brain, eyes, heart, blood vessels and bones. These problems can occur many years after the original infection.

Diagnosis & Treatment:

Syphilis is diagnosed through a blood test and may be cured with about two weeks of antibiotics depending on the stage that it was discovered in.  If left undiagnosed, syphilis can spread to the brain over a long period of time, hence its reputation for driving a person “insane.”

Dinner Trivia Fact:

Rumor has it that Christopher Columbus may have spread syphilis in Europe/Old World after catching it on his fateful trip to America in 1492. Suddenly, a t-shirt doesn’t look like such a bad travel souvenir.

Genital Warts

What it is & Symptoms:

Genital warts are generally caused by a strain of HPV, which spreads through skin-to-skin contact during unprotected oral, anal, or vaginal intercourse. Many times, warts will take six weeks to six months, or sometimes years, after infection to show up. It’s important to note that the strains of HPV that cause cervical cancer are not the same types that cause warts.

Genital warts can be so tiny that you don’t see them, and can resemble flesh-colored bumps or cluster together, looking like cauliflower. They are found on the tip of the penis, scrotum, vagina, or in or around the anus.

Diagnosis & Treatment:

Doctors can diagnose genital warts by examining them under a lens. There is no cure for HPV, but there are methods to treat visible warts that should only be done by a doctor. Doctors may give you a prescription cream, medication, or remove warts through surgery; however, since the virus itself cannot be cured, warts may return within 3 months of treatment.

Dinner Trivia Fact:

There are over 120 strains of HPV, but the body can clear most strains. Only certain types advance to cancer or warts. Basically, your body is a soldier! How’s that for a positive body image?

Genital Herpes

What it is & Symptoms:

Herpes is highly contagious and spreads through sexual fluids or saliva exchange with an infected person.

Herpes actually comes in two forms, the HSV1 and the HSV2 strains, which affect both men and women in the mouth or on the genitals. HSV1 strains are commonly known as cold sores that are found around the mouth; these are not the same as genital herpes, which are caused by HSV2 strains. Many times, herpes shows no symptoms, so those that are affected will not know. If you do have symptoms of genital herpes, some of them may include clear or white pearl-like blisters in the genital area and itchy, burning rashes. You’ll generally have an outbreak about 2-30 days after being infected.

Diagnosis & Treatment:

A doctor can diagnose herpes through a blood test or by taking a sample from your sore. Once you have herpes, it will never go away. You can only manage how frequently you have an outbreak.

For treatment, your doctor will give you antiviral medications, so you can stay symptom-free longer. After the outbreak goes away (usually 2–4 weeks), the virus lies dormant in the cells, and can reoccur when you have any reduced immunity.

Dinner Trivia Fact:

It’s estimated that 1 out of 5 Americans have genital herpes. This should make you look at your classmates at your high school reunion in a different light.

Important Note: if you test positive for any of these STIs, you should tell your partner and any previous partners that you may have potentially infected. For future sexual experiences, prevention is really the key. Take the necessary precautions by getting tested and discussing the results and options with your partner before engaging in sexual activity.

Shoot, if you need any help communicating, I can send some of my mother’s magazine images your way.

By Michelle White

By Michelle White

6 Ways to Make Friends in a New City

I’m a very outgoing person but I’ve realized that once you enter “adulthood,” dynamics change entirely. Aside from childhood or college friends, some of whom you may just outgrow, I had no clue how to make friends. How did couples meet each other and go on ski retreats to the Poconos? This happened, right?

Despite my general anxiety of meeting new people, I decided to leave my roots in Kansas (yes, I know) and move to New York. And again in 2012, I decided to quit my job and New York City, and I moved to Bangalore, India. While my future memoir will describe this move as a glamorous and inspirational change, I’ll let you in on a secret (which now makes us good friends!): I was terrified of leaving all my friends and that I would never be able to connect with anyone ever again.

I may have a penchant for the dramatic, but I understand how scary it is meeting people in a new city or country.  Therefore, on my one-year anniversary of the “Shilpa Moves Abroad” saga, I offer you six practical tips that have helped me replace my book at dinner with a conversation.

1. Register for Meet-Up groups:

This one may seem very obvious, but you’ll be surprised how many people feel ashamed or too shy to sign up for expat clubs or various meet-up groups. It may feel like Internet dating for platonic friendships, but everyone attending the events also has the intention of meeting new people; essentially, it’s like the first day of kindergarten, except for adults.

2. Take a fun class:

Shy about going to a bar or dinner alone? Joining a group class is not only a fun way to learn a new skill or craft, but also great for continuously engaging in fun activities with others, long term.  Classes meet consistently, so you can even build up the courage to start talking to other classmates over time: it’s not a “one shot” moment. The real benefit is that everyone there already shares a similar interest and the commitment to exploring it fully.

3. Join a gym:

To be frank, I only started going to the gym to meet people and to feel less hypocritical about working for a health awareness website.  Aside from the health benefits (blah blah blah) of a gym, what health mags won’t tell you is that gyms are teeming with young people! I live relatively isolated from the “cool” parts of town, but I ended up making a great friend at the gym who lived in my building, was from New York, and could bench press 180 — what a triple threat!

4. Go to that random party where you only know one person:

Congrats, you made one friend! Now the key to multiplying them is to take him/her up on any offer to go to a house party, a dinner party, or a random bar where you won’t know anyone else. If you enjoy one person’s company, chances are you’ll meet and enjoy his or her friends as well.  Party crashing is the new networking.

5. Sign up for networking groups / listservs / professional Google groups:

Speaking of networking, you should continue to do that! Aside from the obvious benefits of meeting mentors and industry connects, you will also meet equally ambitious people who can become lifelong friends.  I am a part of numerous business listservs that host Happy Hours, panel discussions, and gala events.

6. Volunteer:

Whether you join an organization or sign up for a one-day effort, a few hours of your time to give back to the community can give you the warm fuzzies and possibly a friend! When I first moved to New York, I volunteered by counseling rape victims in the ER. Due to the difficult nature of work, we had an intense four-day training session where I met a girl who ended up being a friend well after our volunteer duties ended. Showing passion for a common cause lays a strong and healthy foundation for friendship.

The ultimate theme in these tips is to keep putting yourself out there. Obviously, you’ve taken a big step and left old comforts for a new city and new adventures. You will meet and engage with people whom you’ve never been exposed to before — provided you are willing to take on any experience and encounter with a grain of salt and a possible tequila shot.

Make New Friends Square

Photo by Remi Coin